Luxury fashion house Prada unveiled a pair of men’s leather sandals that bear an uncanny resemblance to the Kolhapuri chappal, a centuries-old handcrafted footwear from Maharashtra. The catch? These sandals were priced at around ₹1.2 lakh (approx. $1,200) and bore no acknowledgment of their Indian roots at least not at first. This sparked a heated debate around cultural appropriation, traditional artisanship, and more importantly, Geographical Indication (GI) protection. But what exactly is a GI tag, and why does it matter so much in cases like these?
What Is a Geographical Indication (GI)?
A Geographical Indication (GI) is a form of intellectual property right that links a product to a specific geographical origin, attributing its quality, reputation, or distinctiveness to that place. In simpler terms, GI tags legally recognize that a product be it food, craft, or textile is unique because of where and how it is made. India’s GI regime is governed by the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. Once a product gets a GI tag, only those registered producers within the designated region can use the product’s name. The purpose of GI protection is not just to preserve heritage it is also about ensuring economic justice for local producers, artisans, and farmers.
Some popular Indian GI-tagged products include:
- Darjeeling Tea
- Kanjeevaram Sarees
- Mysore Sandalwood
- Nagaland Chilli
- And of course, Kolhapuri Chappals
Why GI Matters: More than Just a Tag
When a GI tag is granted, it:
- Protects traditional knowledge and craftsmanship from misuse.
- Empowers rural communities, giving them exclusive commercial rights to their heritage.
- Boosts export potential, since GI products are often seen as authentic and premium.
- Preserves cultural identity, by preventing misrepresentation of traditional practices.
The Kolhapuri Chappal: India’s Iconic Footwear
Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted leather sandals, known for their durability, intricate braiding, and comfort. They have been worn for over 800 years and are deeply embedded in the cultural fabric of western India. In 2019, the Indian government granted the Kolhapuri chappal a GI tag, covering artisans in eight districts across Maharashtra and Karnataka. The GI status legally restricts the use of the name “Kolhapuri” to chappals made in this specific region using traditional methods.
The Prada Controversy: Global Glamour, Local Outrage
In June 2025, Prada released a new line of sandals during Milan Fashion Week. The product caught Indian attention for one reason it looked exactly like a Kolhapuri chappal, minus the name. Priced at over ₹1.2 lakh, the sandals were listed on Prada’s official website and quickly went viral in India. Netizens and designers immediately called out the brand for cultural appropriation and exploiting Indian heritage without acknowledgment or collaboration. Fashion critics argued that Indian artisans, who typically earn less than ₹1,000 per pair of chappals, were being robbed of recognition and economic benefit.
Politicians like Sharad Pawar and Sambhajiraje Chhatrapati called the move “daylight robbery.” Edelweiss CEO Radhika Gupta tweeted: “₹500 rupee chappal sold for ₹1 lakh, without any credit. Our textile heritage is ours to preserve.” Amidst the outrage, Prada issued a statement acknowledging that the design was “inspired” by Indian footwear and expressed willingness to engage in “meaningful dialogue” with Indian artisans. However, they did not withdraw the product or commit to any compensation model.
Legal Grey Zones: Is It GI Infringement?
legally, Prada may not have violated the GI registration because they never used the word “Kolhapuri.” GI law protects the name, not necessarily the design, unless separately protected under design or trademark law. This raises an important question: is the Indian GI law strong enough to prevent global imitation?
Legal experts suggest that India may need to:
- Expand GI protection globally under WIPO treaties.
- Encourage artisans to register their designs separately under the Designs Act.
- Create an international fair-use framework for heritage-inspired fashion collaborations.
Interestingly, the controversy has also sparked a surge of interest in genuine Kolhapuri chappals. Indian e-commerce platforms have reported increased sales, and many consumers are choosing to support local brands. Several state governments are now proposing awareness drives and international design protections for other GI crafts as well.
Final Thoughts
The Kolhapuri vs Prada issue is not just about a sandal. It’s about cultural ownership, fair credit, and economic dignity. Geographical Indications are supposed to protect the invisible hands that create iconic crafts. But unless we empower them with global legal teeth and ethical enforcement, their heritage remains vulnerable to elite exploitation.
Sources:
- Indian Express – Explained: The Prada Kolhapuri Chappal Row
- Business Today – Radhika Gupta Slams Prada
- Times of India – Sambhajiraje, Pawar on Prada Row
- Reuters – Indian Brands See Sales Boost
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